Aryabhatta, The Indian Mathematician
February 20, 2012 | 
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Aryabhatta (476-550 A.D.) was born in Patliputra in Magadha, modern Patna in Bihar. Many are of the view that he was born in the south of India especially Kerala and lived in Magadha at the time of the Gupta rulers; time which is known as the golden age of India. There is no evidence that he was born outside Patliputra and traveled to Magadha, the centre of education and learning for his studies where he even set up a coaching centre. His first name “Arya” is hardly a south Indian name while “Bhatt” (or Bhatta) is a typical north Indian name even found today specially among the “Bania” (or trader) community.
Whatever this origin, it cannot be argued that he lived in Patliputra where he wrote his famous treatise the “Aryabhatta-siddhanta” but more famously the “Aryabhatiya”, the only work to have survived. It contains mathematical and astronomical theories that have been revealed to be quite accurate in modern mathematics. For instance he wrote that if 4 is added to 100 and then multiplied by 8 then added to 62,000 then divided by 20,000 the answer will be equal to the circumference of a circle of diameter twenty thousand. This calculates to 3.1416 close to the actual value Pi (3.14159). But his greatest contribution has to be zero. His other works include algebra, arithmetic, trigonometry, quadratic equations and the sine table.
He already knew that the earth spins on its axis, the earth moves round the sun and the moon rotates round the earth. He talks about the position of the planets in relation to its movement around the sun. He refers to the light of the planets and the moon as reflection from the sun. He goes as far as to explain the eclipse of the moon and the sun, day and night, the contours of the earth, the length of the year exactly as 365 days.
He even computed the circumference of the earth as 24835 miles which is close to modern day calculation of 24900 miles.
This remarkable man was a genius and continues to baffle many mathematicians of today. His works was then later adopted by the Greeks and then the Arabs.
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Blood in Stool – 7 Reasons Found in the Colon
Blood in stool is often discovered with some perplexity, accompanied appropriately by exclamations of ‘bloody’ (not expletive). Dots of blood, scarlet red, stand out unmistakably on excrement. Maroon red blotches of blood besmirches the toilet tissue. Bright red spots of blood dribble into the toilet bowl or down the legs. Quite naturally, a sudden bout of fear causes our hearts to jump a beat or two.
No undue alarm is warranted yet as the hemorrhaging (technical word for bleeding) could be any one of 7 possible causes arising from the colon. Mindful attention to ensure early diagnosis and correct treatment will reduce any unsettling lifestyle changes as the best part of the 7 causes are treatable. Do not be unconcerned. Commence close monitoring. Without delay, consult your doctor if bleeding and pain lingers for more than a week.
Appropriate treatment following proper diagnosis can often quickly resolve the problem. More critically, blood in stool may be the consequence of some type of cancer.
Melena or Hematochezia
Hematochezia (maroon or bright red colored blood) or melena (black sticky or tarry stools) are two medical categorizations for the less technical term rectal bleeding. Whilst recognised as rectal bleeding as the exit is the rectum, the origins of the blood may be any of 7 causes in the colon (large intestine). Cancer, colon polyps, diverticulosis, Crohn’s disease, ulcerative colitis, intestinal ischemia and peptic ulcer are the 7 known causes in the colon.
Colorectal Cancer
This is the third most frequent form of cancer on earth and the third most frequent reason for of cancer-related death with a fatality toll of around 640,000 annually. It is the reason why one should see a medical specialist for continual blood in stool.
Tumours in the colon, appendix and rectum are classified as colorectal cancer. Colonoscopy (visual inspection by micro-camera inserted via the anus) is the chief means of ascertaining colorectal cancer. Treatment focuses on surgical excision and chemotherapy. Timely discovery often leads to a total cure. Those over 50 and those with family history of cancers are classified under the higher risk group. Colorectal cancer is gender blind, affecting both women and men, with no conspicuous bias for either sex.
This next point bears taking note. Quite in contrast to what is reported elsewhere, colorectal cancer commonly produces occult (not visible to the naked eye) blood in feces i.e it is NOT a regular reason for visible blood in stool! According to the University of Michigan Health System, colorectal cancer does cause bleeding but special tests are requisite to confirm the presence of occult blood. Crucial accompanying symptoms to watch out for are diarrhea, constipation, abdominal pain, weight loss, appetite loss and incessant fatigue.
Colon Polyp
Affixing on the walls of the intestines or the rectum, polyps are frequently benign and may be raised or flat. Those above 50 years of age and with a family history of polyps and colorectal cancer are prone to polyps. Contributory factors include lack of exercise, obesity, alcohol and smoking. It would seem that no one knows the real cause.
Whilst benign, polyps are usually excised during colonoscopy as they can become malignant. Polyps do not usually cause noticeable symptoms. But in others, blood in stool is present.
Diverticulosis
Pouches (diverticula) stretching from the colon wall is distinctive of diverticulosis. Diverticula growth is postulated to be a result of abnormal colon pressure, the causes of which are not entirely distinct. Contributory factors include deprivation of dietary fiber. If food gets embedded in diverticula, infection may set in leading to diverticulitis. Complications from diverticulitis can ensue if an infected diverticulum ruptures and disseminates bacteria to the abdominal cavity lining. The possibly deadly peritonitis can materialise.
Diverticulosis do not cause distinct symptoms in most people. Mild cramps, constipation and bloating are some noted symptoms. Yet others suffer more acutely, including nausea, vomiting and rectal bleeding as the most common symptoms. The peril of peritonitis emphasizes the need that blood in stool should first be examined by a doctor. A CT (computed tomography) scan is 98% efficacious in diagnosing diverticulitis.
Ulcerative Colitis
IBD or inflammatory bowel disease, under which colitis is classified, affects the large intestine (colon) and the small intestine. Inflammation by itself is a healthy bodily response to heal damaged tissue. Like a tap that must be turned off, inflammation sets off curing of injured tissue but must terminate thereafter or greater tissue harm may ensue. Ulcerative colitis is caused by ulcers which are erosion of the mucous membrane lining.
Apart from other symptoms, blood in stool is frequent. The risk of peritonitis from colitis is the key reason for diagnosing it as the cause of rectal bleeding.
Crohn’s Disease
Crohn’s disease is an auto-immune disease whereby the body’s immune system provokes harmful inflammation by assailing the gastrointestinal tract. It can develop in any part of of the gastrointestinal tract, from the mouth to the anus. But it usually affects the small and large intestine (colon).
Smoking, genetic makeup and industrial environmental exposure are believed to be contributory causal factors even though definitive causes are unknown. The symptoms are blood in stool, abdominal cramps, severe bloody diarrhea, blood on toilet tissue or in the toilet bowl, fever and weight loss.
Often termed as granulomatous colitis, Crohn’s disease can go into abeyance and happen again periodically throughout life. Currently, there is no known surgical or pharmaceutical solution for Crohn’s disease. Early detection is important for efficacious control of the symptoms and checking recurrences.
Intestinal Ischemia
Ischemia is a suppression in blood supply to any part of the body. Dysfunctional arteries result in tissue damage due to the deprivation of blood nutrients and oxygen. Intestinal ischemia is the depletion blood supply causing inflammation of the large intestine; a result of blood clots, blood vessel constriction and general high blood pressure.
Symptoms include blood in stool, urgent and violent bowel movements, weight loss, nausea, diarrhea, abdominal pain and cramps, abdominal bloating and fever. Urgent medical attention is needed to rejuvenate intestinal blood supply if there is serious consistent pain. It may be crucial to surgically circumvent blocked blood vessels and remove blood clots and damaged tissue. To arrest clots and infections, respective medication includes anticoagulants and antibiotics.
Peptic Ulcer
An exceedingly painful ulcer, this is located in the gastrointestinal tract. An erosion of the mucosal membrane that is at least 0.5cm in diameter is an ulcer. Commonly mistaken to occur in the stomach, peptic ulcers are actually prevalent in the duodenum (initial part of the small intestine). Peptic ulcers are largely presumed to be caused by a bacterium that inflicts chronic gastritis.
Symptoms include blood in stool (melena), abdominal pain, bloating, nausea, appetite and weight loss, vomiting of blood and at the extreme, perforation of the intestine. This can lead to possibly deadly peritonitis and requires emergency surgery. Antibiotics and antacids can be used to cure milder cases.
Hemorrhoids
The above 7 causes is the rationale why rectal bleeding demands the skills of a medical doctor who can render a precise diagnosis. Appropriate treatment and medication, possibly including surgery, can accelerate the path to recovery.
Lest you be too distressed by the above narrated causes, blood in stool is most usually due to the relatively innocuous internal or external hemorrhoids.
How to Spot Bad Mole?
How to spot malignant mole?
This morning you took a bath. The warm water feels so nice during the cold winter day. There was some funny skin itching on you back. You looked in the mirror, turned this way , that way. There is small mole on your back You remember this spot had been there for years, since childhood. Did this spot get that strange itching?
Recently you have heard the news that there are more than 50000 of new melanoma cases every year. This number grows 3% a year.
What is going on? Is this small spot on you back went out of control?
Several types of skin tumors exist. Many are slow growers. Many give rare metastasis. Simple removal cure majority of skin tumors.
Melanoma brings troubles big time.
Melanos = black, oma = tumor.
You can detect melanoma by self-exam. Skin cancers show themselves much easier than any other types of cancer.
In the same time you can cure melanoma by simple surgical resection. However, catch this tumor in early stage. Late stage metastasize. Surgeon can not cut off every metastasis in your body.
There are numerous sites dedicated to melanoma self-exam. Just type in the word “melanoma” into any search engine. Follow instructions.
Fair skin people have more chances of getting melanoma. However, dark skin people develop melanoma too.
Everybody has moles. Women even use moles to charm. How to find if your mole became dangerous?
Dangerous signs include ABCD:
Asymmetry
Border
Color
Diameter
A- asymmetry. Suspicious mole does not look like a round or oval blot. Often, early melanoma looks rather like a blot with an odd shape.
B- borders. Borders become irregular, uneven, fuzzy. The edges of the blots become notched.
C- color. Color of normal mole should be more or less homogenous. Change in color is very suspicious . There are shades of brown, black, tan, red. Mottled color is suspicious.
D- diameter. Change in diameter is suspicious too. Mole that is bigger than 6 mm is suspicious. Everybody compares 6 mm to a pencil eraser (though few people actually use it extensively). Just to get idea about the borderline size.
Besides ABCD there could be other signs of dangerous mole:
E – enlargement and elevation over the time
Also worrisome signs include easy bleeding and erythema (redness) around the mole.
Itching and pain in the side of mole make you suspicious as well.
History of melanoma in Family should also raise suspicions.
Some skin problems look like melanoma, but are actually harmless. Anyway, do not gamble with them. Even experienced physician can not always tell if the lesion is malignant or not. It is better to be safe then sorry and check the troubling changes soon.
Some rare types of melanoma exist. Because even obvious melanomas are not always diagnosed on time, the unusual types becomes much more deadlier. Often doctor sees them too late.
Melanoma under the nails. Melanoma of mucous membranes. (Mouth, nose or guts) Amelanotic melanoma – this one is not even colored.
The treatment will be excision with margins and biopsy, but most important of course is to catch melanoma Know that the treatment depends on the thickness of the tumor and the presence of distant metastasis.
Surgeon or dermatologist cuts off the melanoma. Then, Pathologist (doctor specializing in lab diagnostics) looks the sample under microscope.
He classifies the tumor. The grade of the tumor gives the clue to the chances of your survival.
There are several classifications
Breslow classification measure the penetration of the lesion into skin by millimeters. Know that > 0.75 mm is already dangerous, but > 4 mm is wacking.
What is 4 mm. It is nothing. Right? Take a ruler and check how 1 mm looks and how 4 mm looks.
So this is why it is important to catch melanoma early.
There is also Clarks classification that measures penetration of the melanoma into the skin and other layers.
TNM classification standardizes the grading.
You can not know the grade unless you excise and measure the melanoma penetration under microscope. It is not a do-it-yourself project. Surgeon and pathologist will do it.
The time of evolvement 1-2 years.
The frequency of melanoma is increasing. It might be because of more people get sun damage. Also other reasons may play role.
Treatment of melanoma includes surgical removal, chemotherapy, immunotherapy, radiation therapy.
FAQ on Modifying the Toyota Supra
What does BPU(TM) stand for? (BPU(TM) is a trademark of SupraStore.com)
Basic Performance Upgrades. These modifications are: A full length three inch down-pipe (with or with-out high flow cats), 3″ (75mm) or bigger cat-back exhaust system, raised boost (18psi), and the required boost cut eliminator (GReddy BCC) needed to achieve that boost without activating the factory fuel cut-off at 14-15psi. These are the modifications that have proven to provide the best HP-to-$$$ ratio.
What does the + mean when someone says BPU(TM)+? And what is APU?
That stands for any additional power producing modifications other than the basic BPU(TM) modifications. One “+” refers to Adj. Cam Gears and under-drive pulleys, the second “+” refers to a Fuel controller, ECU upgrade, etc. For instance, a Supra with the BPU(TM) modifications, plus a front-mount intercooler, would be called BPU(TM)+. If you added cam gears to that, it would be BPU(TM)++, and so on. The “BPU(TM)” term is used until you have an upgraded turbo(s). Then it is referred to as APU, advanced performance upgrades. This designation pretty much covers every modification that can be performed.
What are the first engine modifications I should perform?
I recommend starting with raising the boost of the stock turbos to roughly 18psi. This will require a quality boost gauge and a boost cut eliminator (GReddy BCC). You will achieve 15 or so PSI with the stock Down Pipe in place. This will provide an addition of approximately 30rwhp. After those modifications are completed, it would be a logical next step to install the Down Pipe and Cat-Back Exhaust at the same time. You will now be at full BPU(TM).
What do all the various “Free Mods” do?
There are many different “free mods” for the Supra TT. I will cover just a few of them here. The ones I will cover fall into three categories, boost control, EGR disabling, and TTC or True Twin Conversion.
Three of the boost control mods are: Bleeder-T Mod, Clamp Mod, and the VSV Bypass Mod. Each of these modifications raise boost levels without the use of a boost controller. But you have to keep a close eye on your boost gauge, and make sure they are not allowing the turbos to boost too high (18psi is a safe level).
The next mods, are the true twin conversion mods (or TTC). This modification disables the Sequential twin turbo operation, and causes the turbos to run constantly in parallel (both on at the same time). This is supposed to allow for slightly better mid-range power (before the secondary turbo would normally come online) and allows for a smoother power band, without the abrupt boost increase caused by the transition from primary to secondary operation. However, this does noticeably decrease low-end power, and increases exhaust noise levels, and therefore may not be desirable on the street. Two types of the TTC mod are, the traditional TTC mod which includes 2 methods, wiring the actuators, or installing a one way valve, and the Electronic TTC mod (ETTC).
The last mod I will discuss is the EGR mod. This disables the Exhaust Gas Recirculation system, which is meant for emissions, and therefore, this modification is for off-road use only. This mod is supposed to prevent the super heating of the number 5 and 6 cylinders, which may cause burnt valves.
How much power will my car make at BPU(TM)?
It varies from car-to-car, and the conditions as well as tuning. Most BPU(TM)-only Supra Twin Turbos, dyno between 370 and 410 horsepower at the rear wheels. This is usually achieved with moderate temperatures, a reset ECU (to erase anything bad the ECU may have learned), and often a little bit of high-octane un-leaded race fuel. On the street, power will be reduced, especially in poor weather, but at least 90 percent of the power should be retained.
What kind of 1/4 mile ETs and trap speeds should I run at BPU(TM)-only?
It varies WIDELY depending on driver skill. As well as track conditions, elevation above sea level, ambient temperatures, humidity, and pre-race preparation. But most fall between 12.3 to 12.9 ets with 112 to 119mph trap speeds on street tires. Times can drop well into the 11s with drag radials, a good driver, and good conditions, as well as proper pre-race preparation.
What is a BPU(TM)’d Supra TT’s top speed?
Speeds in the mid-high 180mph range should be achievable. Once the speed-limiter is disabled, by pulling the “TRAC” fuse of course.
Will the life of my Engine and Drivetrain be adversely affected with the BPU(TM) mods?
Yes, but not by a significant amount. If the car is maintained properly, and the car is treated with some respect for the components, you should maintain much of the power train’s life. Which considering the fact that the Supra is by far one of the most reliable and durable sports cars, it will last longer than most well maintained STOCK sports cars. The only Drivetrain components that will see a significantly shortened life will be the stock clutch. It will more than likely not last much longer than 8-10k miles once at BPU(TM). This especially holds true if the car is making repeated high speed runs using 5th and 6th gear at wide open throttle. If your stock clutch has high mileage on it, or is already starting to slip, you will need to plan on a new high-performance clutch. Also the stock turbos will be subject to a somewhat shortened life span (how short will depend on how you drive and maintain the car, as well as how much boost you will run)
What’s the reliability of a 600hp Supra Turbo?
Chassis, electrical, and suspension components should see little effect on reliability on street driven Supras. The stock 2JZ-GTE engine should hold up pretty well to this power level. Just how long depends on maintenance, and how hard you drive it, and how often. But typically Supras can go for years at this power level. The transmission reliability will depend on whether it’s an Automatic or Manual. A stock automatic will not hold this much power, a built transmission will be required, and it’s reliability will depend on it’s design and construction. The 6spd Manual should hold up just fine, as well as the rear differential and axles.
The only real reliability concerns at these low power levels would surround the actual modifications you perform. Excluding installation short-comings, the components utilized, even very high quality ones, may fall short of factory component reliability, as the built in compromises that exist in everything, would lean more towards the side of ultimate performance, than of ultimate reliability (Keep in mind we are talking about a Toyota here, whose reliabilty standards are exceptionally high) This may include fuel system components, turbo components, and especialy electronic wizardry. Basically a set-up that is either VERY well concieved, or utilizes OE components as much as possible, without over burdening them, would posses *near* stock reliability. And tuning of the components, and component selection, and matching, would play a HUGE role in this.
What are the power limits of the various factory components (Differential, Transmission, Motor, etc.)?
There have really not been enough failures to really pin point a limit for the various power-train components. The motor could fail at factory power levels if it was running dangerously lean. But when well tuned, the motors internals (Pistons, Rods, Crank, Head Gasket etc) are reliable to 700rwhp. But of course at these power levels, if the engine is not set-up and tuned properly, it is literally a bomb waiting to go off, however this would be just as true with a built motor. Some owners have pushed their stock internals to the limit and have well exceeded 800rwhp, and even approached 900rwhp. I still don’t understand how such an over built motor made it past the bean counters at Toyota Corporate.
The 6-speed Getrag is ridiculously strong for an OE transmission. Its limit’s will be affected greatly by driving technique, such as launching, and whether or not power shifting is used. Even driven hard, the Getrag should hold up reasonably well with 700RWHP. If you treat it with some respect, it should be able to handle around 800RWHP or more, although great care and respect will need to be practiced at those levels.
Differential, axle, CV Joint, and drive shaft failures are a VERY rare occurrence. So I don’t have much info on their failure limits. On street tires, it would be almost impossible to break any of these components at ANY power level. The tires would spin before they would put the driveline under that kind of strain. The tires act sort of like a circuit breaker. If you run drag slicks, this does not hold true of course, yet they have proven themselves to be 10 and even 9 second capable.
Will drivability, interior noise levels, and low-end power be adversely affected with the BPU(TM) mods?
Drivability is not adversely affected. Interior noise level depends on the exhaust system you choose. Some will make it far louder; some will actually make it quieter. But most are just a little bit louder than stock. But the added dBs are also combined with a MUCH sweeter exhaust note, so it’s definitely worth it. And the interior of the Supra is pretty quiet anyway, so on the highway, it will be VERY livable. As far as low-end power goes, the down-pipe will greatly decrease Turbo Lag. So low-end power and response is much improved over stock.
Will emissions be adversely affected by the BPU(TM) mods?
As long as a high-flow cat is used, emissions should not be effected, and you should still pass visual inspection. If you run without catalytic converters, you are doing so at your own risk, and you would not pass visual or emissions testing.
Will fuel mileage be adversely affected by the BPU(TM) mods?
If driven calmly, as in light throttle, mileage should not be significantly affected. Mileage will greatly decrease during however, if you drive “vigorously”, more power equals more burned fuel I am afraid.
Should I install an “Intake” (Open Element Filter)?
This is a bit of a yes and no answer. The stock filter assembly is a flow restriction, and an open element intake would increase potential flow. However, it will also draw in more heated engine compartment air, which can hurt performance. My advice is to either modify the stock filter box, or install a cool air induction box, like the Max Air. An added bonus of the open element filters, is that they allow you to easily hear the primary turbo and by-pass valve.
What about the stock intercooler?
The stock intercooler does a decent job up till about 17psi on the stock turbos, after that you would probably notice a significant gain, especially in warmer temperatures, with a nice front mount intercooler. However, keep in mind it will block some of the airflow to the radiator, as well as decreasing response slightly.
Should I replace the factory rubber Intercooler hoses with aftermarket metal hoses?
It wouldn’t hurt. But it won’t help a lot either. At the most you may slightly increase throttle response, but at least it will look nicer.
What about the fuel system, are the stock injectors and fuel pump large enough for BPU(TM)?
Yes, the stock fuel system is very safe and reliable to 450RWHP, although I would recommend a fuel pulsation damper bypass. Anything over that, and I would highly recommend having the car dyno’d, and using a wide-band O2 sensor (not a cheap A/F gauge connected to the stock O2) to check the fuel ratio at your high boost setting. 11.5:1 would be a safe fuel ratio.
What are the stock injectors rated at?
540cc/min
Would the Supra benefit from a fuel controller?
BPU(TM)’d Supras run a little on the rich side as far as fuel ratios go. This hurts power. What it does do is provide a safety margin that makes engine damage through detonation unlikely. If you get a fuel controller, and tune it properly (on a dyno, with an accurate EGT gauge, and a high band O2 (The Stock O2 sensors are not accurate), then you should be able to gain a noticeable amount of power. One of the most popular electronic fuel controllers is the A’PEXi S-AFC. The Fields SFC is good too.
What should I use to increase my boost level, an Electronic Boost Controller, or a Manual BC?
Using an EBC is the safest way to raise boost, it will prevent spiking and over-boosting. But it really comes down to your budget. If you can afford an EBC, get one. If you can’t, go with a MBC. And always keep an eye on that boost gauge. And whatever you are using to control boost, remember to not get carried away, I don’t recommend going regularly over 18psi.
What is the best Electronic Boost Controller?
There really is no BEST. Although the A’PEXi AVC-R is a nice unit, it provides much more control over boost than other EBCs, but it is also more complex to install, and tune. The new Blitz unit is also nice. Most of the large manufacturers make decent units. Just avoid fuzzy-logic equipped models if you still have the sequential stock turbos, they will become “confused” by the unnatural behavior of the sequential system.
When installing my EBC, do I connect it to both of the Turbo’s Wastegates?
The Primary Turbo is the only one with a wastegate. When in full twin turbo mode, the boost of both Turbos is regulated by the primary turbo’s wastegate. So, only connect it to the Primary’s.
Some people say I need to replace my ECU with a reprogrammed one, instead of just using a boost controller. Do I?
Reprogrammed ECUs for the Supra TT are VERY $$$. They are in the $1200 range. And they have not been proven to provide a significant increase in performance or safety on BPU(TM) level cars. Their merit shows itself on cars with upgraded Turbo(s). Just be sure you buy your ECU, or have it reprogrammed by a reputable shop that knows what they are doing. And have it tailored to your particular car (Driving habits, and Mods). And I would also recommend taking a look at the AEM Programmable system.
What is a safe boost level to run at BPU(TM)?
The general consensus is 17-18psi. Some people have taken it higher, but I don’t recommend it if you don’t have the money for a turbo replacement/upgrade.
Which Down-Pipe is recommended?
The RMM (or Rod Millen Motorsports) Cat-less Downpipe is the most commonly used. However many other brands exist. Some down-pipes, such as the Random Technology DP, feature an emissions legal high-flow catalytic converter.
Will a high-flow cat hurt performance?
It will have some effect on power output, but not a lot. Its exact effect on HP is not clear, but it probably costs a few hp at the most, maybe 5-15hp at BPU(TM) power levels.
What is a Down-Pipe?
It is the section of the exhaust system that connects the outlet of the Turbocharger’s Turbine section to the “Cat-Back” exhaust system. The Downpipe is also where the two catalytic converters are located, as well as the O2 sensor (or sensors in OBD-II cars).
I have an OBD2 car. Can I still install a Down-Pipe?
Yes. But unless the DP has a Catalyst and a second location for an O2 sensor, you will trip your check engine light, unless you get one of those O2 “black boxes”.
Which Exhausts are the loudest?
The Tanabe Racing Medallion, and HKS Hiper Titanium seem to be the two loudest systems.
Which Exhausts are the quietest?
The Tanabe Hyper Medallion, the discontinued Tanabe G-Power Medallion and the GReddy (SP) Street Performance seem to be the quietest. At anything less than full throttle, they are no louder than stock. But at full throttle they seem to “wake up” a bit.
What are some recommended exhaust systems?
It depends on your personal preferences. Below I will break down some of my recommendations based on certain combinations of preferences.
Subtle Styling / Very Low Cost:
-Random Technology (75mm, full stainless steel)
Subtle Styling / Low Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-GReddy Street Performance (80mm)
-Tanabe Super Hyper Medallion (80mm, full stainless steel, 50-state legal)
Subtle Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-ATR (75mm, full stainless steel)
Tasteful Styling / Low-Moderate Sound Level / Low Cost:
-HKS Dragger II (85mm)
Tasteful Styling / Low-Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-GReddy Power Extreme (80-94mm)
-HKS Super Dragger (95mm)
Tasteful Appearance / Moderate Sound Level / High Cost / Super Light:
-Veilside Tear Drop Titanium (90mm, full titanium)
Tasteful-Wild Styling / Low Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-TRD 2nd gen.
Wild Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Low Cost:
-A’PEXi N1
-HKS Hiper (75mm)
Wild Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-A’PEXi GT Spec (95mm, full stainless steel)
-Blitz NUR Spec (80mm, full stainless steel)
-HKS Hiper Carbon/Titanium (75mm, CF wrapped muffler, titanium tip)
Wild Styling / High Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-Tanabe Racing Medallion (80mm, 50 state legal)
Wild Styling / High Sound Level / High Cost / High Flow:
-HKS Hiper Titanium (104mm, titanium muffler)
What is the cheapest route to replacing the DP and Cat-Back?
Have a custom performance exhaust shop fabricate a complete 3″ exhaust system (Turbo-to-Tip). It should cost well less that $400. And then you can use the muffler and exhaust tip of your choice.
Which Fuel Cut Eliminator is recommended?
The GReddy BCC (Boost Cut Controller) is highly recommended.
What does the Fuel Cut Eliminator do?
The factory ECU is programmed to activate a fuel cut if the manifold pressure exceeds 14-15psi. It does this as a safety measure to prevent what the ECU sees as over boosting. The Fuel Cut Eliminator effectively eliminates, or at least raises the cut to a higher pressure. A reprogrammed ECU can also eliminate this function.
Which boost gauge is recommended?
Any high quality boost gauge will work well. Accuracy is the important feature to look for. Autometer gauges are a good value. The Japanese gauges, A’PEXi, GReddy, HKS, etc., have more features, but at a much higher price.
Where can the boost gauge be installed in the interior?
If you want to mount it in the dash, the two most popular places are the Clock location (which holds a 52mm gauge), and the Air Vent beside it (which holds a 60mm gauge). You can also use an A-Pillar gauge pod.
What is the stock boost pressure?
11-12psi
Are Cam Gears a good modification for the Supra TT?
Yes, they have been shown to provide a 5-15rwhp gain on a BPU(TM)’d car. But to extract their potential, you must have them tuned, by a knowledgeable tuner, on a dyno. And most of the power gains will be seen on the exhaust side. I also recommend buying cam gears which feature 5-bolts.
Are Under Drive Pulley(s) a good modification for the Supra TT?
Most of the crank-shaft under-drive pulleys require the removal of the factory torsional damper.
This is from MKIV.com :”this is NOT an external (harmonic) balancer, as the crankshaft is fully balanced, rather it dampens both the axial twisting couples produced by the firing pulses, and the radial bending moment from the accessory drive belt.”
Basically this device provides crutial isolation between the engine driven accessories, and the crankshaft. However, removal of this can provide a 10-15rwhp gain, but at a cost for long term use.
Do I need to upgrade the ignition when upgrading to BPU(TM)?
The stock ignition system is VERY capable of supplying enough fire for a BPU(TM)’d car. The stock ignition system uses 6 large coils, one for each cylinder. So the system is capable of supporting VERY impressive HP levels. You may need to change to a colder range plug with a tighter gap (see below).
What about the spark plugs, which are recommended at BPU(TM) or higher level?
Basically you want similar plugs as stock, but a cooler heat range and a smaller gap. The stock plugs are NGK BKR6EP-11 (2978) and are platinum tipped and have a .044 (1.1mm) gap. The ideal NGK replacement for a modified Supra would be the BKR7E (6097). It is one range cooler (the ’7′), is non-platinum tipped (the lack of the ‘p’) and has a smaller .0315 gap (lack of the ‘-11′). This plug is also called the NGK 6097 and they are fairly inexpensive. Platinum tipped plugs are not desired for high power applications, Iridium plugs are more prefered. Unfortunately their doesn’t seem to be a BKR8E which might be better for high-HP Supras.
Another good plug to try is the Denso Iridium IK22 or IK24. These plugs may last longer than the above mentioned NGKs, but are also 6 times as expensive. The stock replacement plug would be the IK20, the IK22 is one step cooler, and the IK24 is two steps cooler than stock. The IK22 would be good for ~400rwhp to ~600rwhp. The IK24 would probably be a good choice above that. Two other plugs commonly used are the NGK 3330 (BCPR7ES) which differ much more from the specifications of the stock plugs than NGK 6097. Also the Rapid Fire #5 used to be very popular, but are more expensive, don’t last as long, and have fallin out of favor. Both of those plugs have been known to cause slight stumbling at idle. Plugs on Supras do not live long, usually around 5,000-10,000 miles. So I recommend replacing them with every other oil change.
What is the HKS VPC and GCC?
It is an electronic device, which electronically and physically removes the highly restrictive mass airflow sensor from the intake tract. VPC stands for Vein Pressure Converter. The HKS GCC is a device that allows further fine-tuning of the VPC.
Do I need an after-market Blow off Valve?
It is not absolutely required, but it is a good idea. The factory by-pass valve is prone to failure, and an aftermarket BOV is probably a wise investment for preventing turbo damaging compressor surge. And it sounds cool too. However, it must be noted that if you still have the factory mass-air flow sensor, a blow-off valve, which is vented to the atmosphere, may cause stumbling between shifts.
Can I run Nitrous Oxide on the Supra TT, even if I am already at BPU(TM) power levels?
Yes. Most people run 50-75 shot wet manifold systems. If you want to run a higher shot than this, you might want to consider a well-designed direct port system. I have seen as much as a 200-shot used on one of these systems, and an upgraded fuel system would be a must.
450hp just isn’t enough, what can I do?
Ah the possibilities Basically you are only limited by your imagination, and your wallet. You know what they say, speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?
The real power lies in Single and Twin turbo upgrades, and the options are limitless. You can either build a mild motor that puts out 450 RWHP all day long with instant boost response, or a 1000+ RWHP monster.
Unfortunately, things start getting more difficult after simple BPU(TM) modifications. Modification becomes more than “bolt on Downpipe, gain 50hp”. Things like tuning, parts selection, and matching combinations of parts become much more important. However, this is the case with ANY high HP car. Actually, even at exceptionally high power levels, the Supra TT is still easier to extract power from than almost any other performance car. But it should be kept in mind, that it wouldn’t be as simple as the BPU(TM) bolt-ons.
If you just want something that will toast that pesky Viper GTS. Then focus on a mild single turbo upgrade (T04S04, T60-1, SP57-SP61). Along with this, you should install a front mount intercooler, a fuel controller, fuel pulsation damper bypass and EGT gauge. This is assuming you have done all the BPU(TM) mods, plus BOV, EBC, Cam Gears. With tuning, and a few odds and ends, you should be able to pull 450-500 RWHP (490-580 crank HP) numbers while on a stock fuel system (assuming it is in great condition). This would be a total investment of approximately $6,700-$11,500 in engine/electronic components (also includes the proper gauges). If you already have the BPU(TM) mods or FMIC, etc., you will spend less than this. The difference in prices reflects the cost of higher end parts and addition of a HKS VPC to replace the restrictive stock MAF.
The next level would require a completely upgraded fuel system, and performance cams would be recommended, as well as further electronics (programmable engine management such as the AEM, or VPC/GCC/ECU combo, etc.). This would allow you to run much larger turbos and injectors. You can make it past the 700RWHP range without needing to replace the internals of the motor with stronger components, even at these power levels, if properly tuned and maintained you should retain a fair amount of reliability while still on the stock internals, as some people have eclipsed the 800RWHP level while still running stock bottom ends in their Supras. If you choose to go ahead and build up the bottom end, then the skies are the limit as far as power goes. Just make sure to have part selection, installation, and tuning done by competent and experienced persons. Although this should hold true at ANY level of modification.
Should I install a Turbo Timer?
Absolutely. Unless you don’t mind sitting in your car while it idles down every single time you need to turn the car off. A Turbo timer keeps the engine running for a preset time once you turn off the ignition. So you can remove your keys, and lock up the car and not have to worry about it, it will shut off on it’s own. This is important for the life of the turbos. If the turbos are not given time to cool down, it can overheat the oil and cause coking which will block oil flow to the turbos and damage bearings and cook seals.
How much is the Supra’s power output affected by changes in ambient temperatures?
Very noticeably, just as with most turbo cars, the Supra Twin Turbo can be very temperature sensitive. Especially with the stock turbos and intercooler. On a BPU(TM) car, I would not be surprised to see a 10 percent reduction between 50-60deg temperatures, and 90deg plus temperatures
Will the stock clutch hold the power levels of a BPU(TM) car?
It depends on the condition and wear on the stock clutch. If it is in good condition, yes, it will hold the power, pretty well in fact, although you may experience clutch slip while at full boost in high gears such as 5th and 6th. If you drive vigorously, meaning you run at high boost frequently, then the life of the stocker will be GREATLY shortened. Be surprised if you see an extra 10,000 miles after BPU(TM).
Can I resurface my flywheel when replacing the clutch?
It is not recommended. Buy a new Toyota Flywheel.
Can I install a lightweight flywheel?
Yes, but be aware that they can create a lot of noise at idle, and can transmit more vibrations and shock to the expensive Getrag transmission.
Why is pulling the TRAC fuse beneficial over just turning it off with the switch on the center console?
Just pushing the “Trac Off” button only partially disables the Trac system. It disables the Trac throttle body and TRAC funtion through the ABS System (on 93.5-96 only), but not the Trac system’s ignition timing retard function. Unplugging the Trac fuse eliminates both functions, as well as the 155mph speed limiter, which works through the trac system. The fuse can be found in the main fuse box on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. It must be noted that removing the fuse will cause the TRAC light to stay on, but you’ll get used to it.
Will the TRAC system improve the cars performance?
NO. The Trac system was calibrated to improve traction in slippery conditions. It was not calibrated with performance in mind. When the Trac system senses a loss of traction, it comes on hard, cutting power drastically; this will do nothing but hurt performance. I also would not rely on the Trac system for providing stability at high speeds, if you were to loose control, it would be too slow and clumsy, and would more than likely hamper your efforts to regain control.
How can I remove the factory 155mph speed limiter?
Remove the fuse for the Trac system. The speed limiter works through the Trac throttle body.
What is the Supra TT’s top speed with the Trac fuse removed?
There is some debate on this subject. There are rumors that 180 can be achieved. But by going with the numbers, 168-172mph in stock form seems possible.
What is the Supra TT’s maximum theoretical top speed? Can it exceed 200mph with enough power?
Lets find out.
The Supra TT with the 6-speed has a stock engine redline of 6800rpm, and a 6th gear ratio of .79:1, with a rear axle ratio of 3.13:1. Now we multiply our 6th gear ratio times our rear axle ratio, and we find out our final gear ratio is 2.472:1. Now we divide 6800rpm by our total gear reduction of 2.472:1 and we find out our rear axles, and therefore wheels are spinning at 2751rpm at 6800 engine rpms.
Now we need to calculate our tire circumference. The rear tires section width it 255mm, and the sidewall’s aspect ratio is .40, so our sidewalls are 102mm. Now, to convert this to inches, we divide this by 25.4, which equal’s 4.015 inches. Now multiply this by two, since we have two sidewalls making up the total diameter, and add the wheel diameter of 17″, and we see a total diameter of 25.031 inches. Now to find out our circumference, we multiply that number times pi (3.14), and we find out the circumference is 78.59 inches, now divide that by 12 to convert to feet. And we get 6.549 feet total circumference.
Now multiply our tire’s revolving speed, by the tire’s outside circumference, and we find that the tire is covering 18,016 feet per minute, divide that by the 5280 feet in a mile, and we find we are covering 3.412 miles per minute, now multiply that by the 60 minutes in an hour, and we find we are traveling 204.7miles per hour @ 6800rpm in 6th gear. If the engines redline is increased to 7500rpm, which it often is, because of a higher flowing turbo. Then our maximum speed would be 225.8mph, given enough power of course.
For more go to Http://www.ausdriftcar.cjb.net
Polyester Filament Yarn – A Brief Overview
Polyester Filament Yarn has been on of the good textile products in greater demand due to its tensile capacity. Many products right from fabrics to hosiery and also some home textiles products.
Let me first begin with the manufacturing of filament yarn and then polyester which are amalgamated by a process. Partially oriented tow or partially oriented yarn is made by winding the filament-receiving cylinder winds at a speed slightly higher than the speed of extrusion. Filaments from a large number of spinning positions are collected to form tow, which can later be cut into staple. If the fiber is to be used as continuous filament yarn, the filaments are wound onto metal cylinders, paper tubes, or bobbins. The diameter, or fineness, of spun yarn, filament yarn, or monofilament is designated by the term denier, which is the weight in grams of 9,000 meters of yarn or filament. Yarns for apparel and home furnishings usually have deniers ranging from 80 to 160.
Polyester fiber spinning and drawing equipment can usually be used to produce other melt-spun fibers such as nylon 6 and nylon 66, with relatively minor modification. Waste polyester polymer or fiber is sold, reprocessed, burned, or buried, depending largely on the purity. Some of the leading licensors of polyester fiber technology are Zimmer, DuPont/Chemtex, Inventa, Karl-Fischer, and NOY. Polyester fibers are produced by extruding molten polyethylene terephthalate (PET) through a metal plate or thimble with fine holes called a spinnerette (“spinning”). Next, the fibers are drawn to further orient the polymer molecules, and to adjust the tensile strength, elongation, modulus, dyeability, and other physical properties of the fiber. The fibers are further processed by draw-twisting, draw-texturizing, spin-drawing, crimping, coiling, and looping.
China, USA and West Europe have been major polyester importing countries in the last 3 years. On an average China imported close to 950 thousand tons of polyester in the last 3 years (2002-2004), which was about 10% of China annual consumption. Similarly, USA and West Europe imported around 500-600 thousand tons, which met 30% and 40% of their consumption respectively. Among exporters, Taiwan and Korea are large polyester exporters with close to 700-900 thousand tons of exports in last three years. To a smaller extent, Malaysia, Thailand and Indonesia exported about 200-300 thousand tons of polyester a year in the last three years. USA too has exported around 700 thousand tons of polyester per annum during 2002 – 2006.
How Body pH Can Affect Your Energy Levels
WHAT MOST PEOPLE DON’T REALIZE; WE ARE BIO ELECTRICAL ENGINES
In order to accomplish all the many millions of complex functions that occur over the course of the day, your body has to be able to communicate with itself… all the way down to the cellular level. And do you know how it does this? Through pulses of electricity. That’s right, electricity.
Your body operates on an electro magnetic current. Believe it or not, all of the organs in your body emit these fields of electrical current. In fact, nerve signals are nothing more than electrical charges.
What creates this electrical power in your body is a very fine balance that exists in your bio chemistry. And of all the systems in your body that depend on this delicate, bio chemical balance, one of the most important is your blood stream. This is where pH comes into play. But what is pH?
WHAT PH IS AND WHY IT IS IMPORTANT TO ALL YOUR BODY FUNCTIONS
PH is a scale that measures how acidic or alkaline a substance is. The scale ranges from 1 to 14 with 1 being very acid, 7 neutral and 14 very alkaline.
So what does pH have to do with you and your blood? Well, the pH of your blood is extremely important. The ideal pH level for your blood is right around 7.35 and your body goes to enormous lengths to maintain this level.
Why? Because if your blood pH were to vary 1 or 2 points in either direction, it would change the electrical chemistry in your body, there would be no electrical power and in short order you would drop dead. As you can see, maintaining the right pH level in your blood is pretty important!!
With this in mind a good way to avoid upsetting this delicate bio chemical balance would be to take a look at those things that can compromise the maintenance of the ideal pH level in your body. And what is the main culprit in this case? The answer is the creation of acid in your body.
Before we look at what causes acid, here’s a graphic example to give you an idea of what can happen in the blood when your pH drops to less than ideal. Red blood cells are how oxygen is transported to all the cells in your body.
As red blood cells move into the tiny, little, capillaries, the space they have to move through gets pretty small. In fact, the diameter of the capillaries gets so small that the red blood cells sometimes have to pass through these capillaries one red blood cell at a time!
Because of this, and because it’s important for the red blood cells to be able to flow easily and quickly through your body, they have a mechanism that allows them to remain separate from each other. This mechanism comes in the form of the outside of healthy red blood cells having a negative charge. This causes them to stay apart from each other, sort of like when you try to push the negative ends of two magnets together. They resist each other and stay apart.
Unfortunately, acid interferes with this very important mechanism in a pretty frightening way. Acid actually strips away the negative charge from red blood cells. The result is that your red blood cells then tend to clump together and not flow as easily. This makes it much more difficult for them to flow easily through the bloodstream.
But it also makes it harder for them to move freely through those small capillaries. This means less oxygen gets to your cells. Acid also weakens the red blood cells and they begin to die. And guess what they release into your system when they die? More acid.
I could describe a whole list of processes that occur when your system becomes and remains acid but I think you get the idea. The point is that aside from the acid that is secreted into your stomach to aid digestion, acid in your body is bad. Really bad.
In regard to producing energy in the body, here’s an easy question for you. What do you think happens to a person’s energy level if over time their system becomes more and more acid, their biochemical balance is disrupted and their red blood cells can’t deliver oxygen and nutrients as efficiently to all their cells? The answer is simple. Their energy level drops. Dramatically.
Are you beginning to get the picture here as to the importance of pH in your body? Good. Now let’s take a quick look at what causes acidity in your body and then look at steps you can take to get your body pH back to an ideal level.
WHAT CAUSES ACID IN THE BODY
The primary cause of an acidic condition in your body is from what you put in your mouth. In other words, what you eat and what you drink. And it isn’t how “acid” something may seem when you eat or drink it. It has to do with what is left over when you digest it.
Specifically, does eating or drinking something leave behind an acid or alkaline “ash”. For example, I don’t know about you but I love seafood. Scallops are one of my favorites. However, when your body digests scallops, it leaves an extremely acid ash. In fact, scallops are one of the most acid foods you can eat.
Unfortunately, a lot of the things most people put in their mouths create an acid ash. These include alcohol, coffee and a lot of flesh protein in your diet. Interestingly enough, stress also tends to create an acid condition in the body.
STEPS YOU CAN IMMEDIATELY TAKE TO IMPROVE YOUR PH
Fortunately, it is pretty easy to immediately change your pH for the better and make it more alkaline. The first step is to understand which of the foods you are eating and the drinks you are drinking are acid and which are alkaline. Then it’s simply a matter of eliminating some of the more acid foods you are eating and adding in more alkaline foods.
However, before you start, it’s important to get a baseline of what the pH is in your body so that you can see how you are improving or if you need to continue to eliminate more acid foods and add in more alkaline ones.
You can do this by testing the pH of your saliva on a regular basis. This is really simple to do. More details on how to do this are provided on some web pages I have created for you to help you out. A link to these pages is provided below.
In addition to decreasing the amount of acid foods you eat and increasing the amount of alkaline foods you eat, one of the best ways to immediately begin changing your pH is to drink “green drinks”. You can make these by simply adding a powder that is made up of a whole host of vegetables that are highly alkaline to a glass of water. Information on suggested green drink powders to use is included on pages that I have a link to below.
RESOURCES WHERE YOU CAN LEARN MORE
Clicking on the following link will take you to some pages I created that have more information on alkaline and acid foods, how to test your own pH and what to look for in green drinks.
http://www.ajpip.com/resources/site_map.htm
Start taking the steps described above and you may very well find your energy levels increasing over time. Mine certainly have.
- Andy Long
Everybody Poops – What Your Poop May Be Trying to Tell You
I have to admit up front, this is going to be the crappiest article I’ve ever written.
You see, as I was walking my dogs Marty and Rosie the other day, it occurred to me that poop plays a huge role in my life. I’m not afraid to admit it. I pick up after my dogs every day, I scoop my cat’s litter box every day (OK, not EVERY day, but it certainly feels that way), and I talk with my clients about their bowel movements. In fact, while I was in India this past summer, poop was actually the number one topic of conversation between my colleagues and me, as we compared notes on who had diarrhea and who was still healthy. I even remained on “poop watch,” for several weeks after my return to the States, making sure that everything was OK (and thankfully, it was!)
So, if you are a pet owner, parent, health care professional, or world traveler, you probably know what I mean!
But many people don’t get to talk about poop as much as I do. I know this because when I ask people about their poop, I often get blank stares and uncomfortable looks. So, I let’s talk about all of the questions that people want answered but are usually afraid to ask. After all, your poop is an important indicator of your overall health!
What is Poop?
Have you ever wondered what poop actually is? About 75% of your average poop is water, although this will vary depending on the person. Water is absorbed out of fecal material as it passes through the large intestine, so the longer you take to “go,” the drier your poop will be.
The remaining 25% is comprised of dead bacteria that helped us digest our food, living bacteria, protein, undigested food residue (also known as fiber), waste material from food, cellular linings, fats, cholesterol, salts, protein, and substances released from the liver and the intestines (such as mucus).
What Makes a Healthy Poop?
Your feces are a clear indicator of the health of your gastrointestinal tract. Dr. Mehmet Oz says, “At the end of the day you can analyze your body really effectively by looking at what comes out of your body.”
So what should you look for? A healthy poop will be:
Golden brown, which is due to pigments formed by the bacteria in the gut and bile from the liver. You want to make sure the color is normal because that tells you a lot about what’s going on in your gastrointestinal tract (more on color below).
Formed into one long shape. Dr. Michael Levitt, an Australian colorectal surgeon who has written a book called The Bowel Book, says that the healthy human stool resembles the shape and consistency (although not the same color) of an unripe banana. Dr. Oz says ” You don’t want [pieces].” Some experts disagree, saying they don’t have to be well- formed. Patrick Donovan, N.D., a naturopath in Seattle, WA says “Stools don’t have to be well- formed logs. They can disperse in the toilet water; they can break down.”
Nearly odorless.
About 1 to 2 inches in diameter and 18 inches long.
What About Other Colors?
Sometimes we don’t see that “golden guru,” and are faced with something else instead. Here’s some insight into what those other colors might mean.
Black: Feces can be black if dried blood is present in it from internal bleeding in the upper digestive tract. See a doctor if this is the case.
Very Dark Brown: Drinking wine the night before may result in dark brown poop. This could also be the result of eating too much salt, or not enough vegetables.
Yellow: One condition that can cause yellow poop is an infection known as giardia, a dangerous infection that can spread to others. Another cause of yellow poop may be a condition known as Gilbert’s syndrome. See your doctor if you are consistently seeing yellow poop.
Green: Babies often have green poop when they are given food for the first time. Children may have green or blue poop from certain illnesses or from ingesting food colorings. Adults may also have green poop if they eat large amounts of green, leafy vegetables or if they eat large amounts of foods with green food coloring. Light green poop may indicate excessive sugar in the diet. Green feces can also occur with diarrhea if bile salts pass through the intestine unchanged. Again, see a doctor if you are concerned!
White/pale: Feces can appear white or pale after drinking barium sulfate, which is often given to patients getting an X-ray of the digestive tract. A white or pale stool may also be an indication of problems with the gallbladder or liver.
Red: Bright red in the feces may be indicative of active bleeding, possibly the result of hemorrhoids. A magenta color may result form eating intense red food coloring, or red foods such as beets.
How Often Should I Poop?
Ah – the big question! Experts disagree on how often a person should poop. The National Institute for Diabetes, Kidney, and Digestive Diseases says three times a week is normal and healthy for some people. According to Ayurveda, an ancient Indian healing system, once a day is ideal. Other experts advocate once or twice a day, while still others say a person should have a bowel movement within two to three hours of a major meal- -or two to three times a day. So you can see that it really depends on who you talk to. My personal opinion is that you above all want to be regular in your pooping schedule, and that one poop a day is ideal.
When someone poops four times a day or more and the poop has a liquid consistency, this is referred to as diarrhea. When someone poops less than two or three days a week and the poop is hard, dry, and difficult to pass, this is known as constipation.
What’s the Deal with Corn?
It’s funny, so it’s ok to laugh. But most people I know have experienced it and they ask why it is that when you eat corn, the next time you poop there it is again! There are a couple of reasons for this. One is that most of us do not thoroughly chew our food. Another interesting tidbit I’ve learned that there is an outer coating on corn that is made up of indigestible cellulose. This outer coating slips off the inner kernel and, since it’s indigestible, passes through the gut intact. It then emerges looking like a whole kernel, even though it’s just the outer skin. The inside of the kernel is starchy and digestible, and that is the part that we succeed in chewing and digesting.
Well, hopefully you know now a lot more about this important topic. And that’s the scoop on poop!
Hitting With Big Barrel Bats in Youth League
My eight year old was playing baseball this fall on a coached pitched team. It was the perfect situation for the fall with only one practice every Sunday afternoon from 2:00-3:30. It was a great experience, one in which he learned a lot. He also had a great time with the other kids on the team. We were also playing flag football during the fall, so we didn’t have a lot of time for extended fall ball, plus he is only 8 so I wasn’t interested in having him involved with a team that was going to play games every week in the fall. I’m not a big proponent of playing year round baseball, but I’ll save that for another article.
The coaches decided they would try to play a couple of games and put into action what they had been teaching during the Sunday practices. We traveled about 45 minutes away on a nice Saturday during the mid fall to play a double header with another eight year old team. It was a good experience but I was shocked when I watched the other team hit. Yes, they beat us in both games 20-8 and 17-9, but that wasn’t what shocked me, it was the bats they were using – Big Barrel Bats.
Let me back up a little bit first. My eight year old is our youngest. My oldest is 26 (I was 40 when our youngest was born) and we have already went through Little League, Babe Ruth, Summer Ball, etc…with our oldest. Also, as a high school baseball coach I host youth camps every summer and thought I was in tune with what was happening in youth baseball. But the bats I saw the other eight year old team using that day caught me by complete surprise. Every player on the other team was using a big barrel (2-5/8 inch diameter) bat, even though they were only eight years old.
The big barrel bat is designed for senior league play, which is typically 13-15 year olds. I did a little investigation and found that all the manufacturers (Easton, DeMarini, Louisville, etc…) specifically advertised that these big barrel bats are not approved for younger youth league teams. This was reinforced more when I found out that most youth leagues (Cal Ripen, Little League, Pony, etc.,.) do not allow players to use the larger barrel bats. However, I did find it odd that the manufacturers are making -10 to -13 drop bats (the unit distinction between the length and the weight of the bat, such as 27 inches long and 17 ounces in weight). It’s obvious that the sale of these ultra-light, big- barrel bats are targeted at youth league players.
Youth league (ages 6-12) aluminum bats are typically 2 ¼ inches in diameter at the sweet spot and usually have a -8 in drop. The idea is to work up as they get older and eventually get to the -3 drop bat that is required in high school.
The problem with using big barrel bats at such a young age is it doesn’t reinforce hitting mechanics. When a young hitter swings and misses the sweet spot, this reinforces the fact they need to use their hands to hit instead of their arms. The sweet spot is located 4-7 inches from the barrel end of the bat, located between the bat’s trademark and the end of the bat. With aluminum (or composite bats) when the player misses the sweet spot, the bat jars in their hands. With a wood bat (which I think all young players should spend time learning to hit with) if the sweet spot is missed, the ball won’t travel very far, maybe a ground ball to second or short. Anyway, it reinforces the need to rotate the hips and use the hands to get the barrel of the bat on the ball. With much practice, a player can become good at making consistent contact on the sweet spot of the bat. Using the hands correctly will strengthen the hands as they get older and allow them to progress in their mechanics as a hitter. Many players struggle with hitting on high school freshman or JV teams because they drag the bat head with the -3 bats that are required by the National Federation Rules. They have been swinging the -8 and -5 bats with their arms and the -3 is even heavier for them to swing. They haven’t developed good strong hands from hitting properly.
The problem with the big barrel bats is the extended hitting zones. The player can have a long swing (one that disconnects with the arms getting away from the body) hitting the ball on the area below the sweet spot near the trademark and still get a solid base hit into the outfield. This was what I witnessed that Saturday this fall during the eight year old coached-pitched game. Most of the hitters in the opposing team line up used more arms than hands to hit, but they still had solid shots into the outfield. In fact, the few times they did make solid contact, the ball was sent like a laser to the outfield fences. Several times our players got hit with the ball (one in the head on a line drive to center field) and the coach was also hit by a hot line drive back to the mound. It was a little scary and these young players were not ready to be swinging these bats.
During my research I also found hitting with big barrel bats was common practice for travel league teams during the summer and fall. Most travel tournament sponsors do not have regulations against using larger barrel bats for youth league ages. With the manufacture warnings clearly listed on these bats, this may be a serious spot for litigation. The travel tournament sponsors and teams that use these bats against the manufacture warnings are exposing themselves to potential lawsuits.
From a hitting stand point, players will never understand their hitting flaws. It’s like the weekend golfer that uses a monster head driver, one that corrects the flight of the ball if the swing is not perfect. As long as you make contact anywhere on the face of the club, you’re in good shape. (I got one in my golf bag) The same is true for the large barrel bats for youth leagues. See, hitting a baseball is difficult and one that comes with much failure. A good big league player that hits around .300 will fail 7 out of 10 times. With young hitters, the failure is what makes them better. Missing the sweet spot on the bat reinforces the idea to use your hands and get the barrel on the ball.
If you’re serious about your young player being a better hitter make him use the 2 ¼ inch barrel in youth league. He can also work with a wood bat in practices and scrimmage games. (or summer league play). Use bamboo when they are young (ages 6-9), moving to maple by the time they are 11 or 12 years old. Both of these bats are extremely durable and hard to break. By the time they are 15-16 years old they can graduate to a nice Ash bat. Most big leaguers use either Ash or Maple. All of our high school players have a wood bat in their bag and train with it regularly.
Don’t delay the development of your youth league hitter by allowing them to use a big barrel bat. Rotate your hips and use your hands to hit the SWEET SPOT.
Pavers Installation
Brick Paver Installation:
Tools Preparation
Arrange to hire a brick masonry saw and flat plate vibrator prior to the day you begin your paver installation. You will need some basic working tools such as carpenters level, tape measure, rubber mallet, rake, shovel, timber stakes, string line, broom, safety eyewear, 1 x ten foot length and 2 x lengths of one inch diameter piping.
Site Preparation
The single most important phase of the entire pavement installation happens to be the preparation of the subsoil and paver bed. The overall strength of the pavement system is dependent upon the correct preparation and placement of the subsoil and base materials.
Mark out the area to be paved by placing wooden stakes around the area and then spray paint from an aerosol can to identify the area to be dug out.
Drainage
Set out the grade levels by securing string line between the stakes, making certain to slope the grade away from any building structure. This will ensure that drainage from rainfall will not seep towards any adjacent building structures. Set up the grade at two inches in height for every eight feet of pavement length.
Excavate Site
Now excavate the top soil and sub soil within the staked out area with the shovel and to a depth of at least ten inches in total. This will allow for a base material of five inches to be placed at the bottom of the excavated trench, next will be one and a half inches of setting sand to be placed on top of the base material and then allow three and a half inches for the thickness of the clay brick paver to be placed on top of the setting sand.
Compaction Of Base Materials
Compact the bottom of the trench with the plate vibrator machine to make a firm foundation for the base materials. Place ¾ inch quarried gravel as the base material and compact it with the plate vibrator machine once again to provide a solid base for the setting sand to sit above it.
Setting Sand
Lay the 2 pipe lengths eight feet apart from each other and parallel to each other. Place the sand to a height of one and a half inches in between the two lengths. Then using the 2×4 wooden length, be sure to level out the sand. Add more sand if you see any low spots. Make sure to level out any high sand spots too. When you have finished leveling the sand make sure that you DO NOT COMPACT THE SAND – because you will compact the bedding sand later on together with the clay brick pavers when using vibrator in the final stages of the installation. The final compaction of the pavers and bedding sand is necessary to allow for the proper interlocking method to take effect. It is the basis for the strength of the interlocking pavement system because the movement of the sand into the bottom and in between the clay paver joints makes them bond firmly together and bear the loads applied to the clay brick pavers in unison.
Installing Clay Brick Pavers
After you have finished placing the setting sand correctly, you may begin to install the pavers. Begin installing pavers from the center of the site and work toward the outside edges of the pavement. Reason for this is to allow the trimming pieces to be at the outside edge of the pavement. Place the pavers about one eighth of one inch apart from each other. Check the string line to make sure you are moving straightly once every five feet of forward progress. Make any adjustment by resetting the pavers using a screwdriver so they sit straight. After the pavers are installed straightly, you need to install the edging material to prevent the paver from moving out of place. The edging material needs to be secured in place before you place the bedding sand and pavers.
The Purpose and Place For a Spiral Staircase
I love a spiral staircase, especially the design and installation. Spirals come with some heavy restrictions beyond that of a “normal” staircase. First and foremost is the idea that a spiral stair serves as a secondary staircase in a home or business; or it serves as a loft access that does not exceed 400 to 500 square feet (depending on local codes).
Code compliant spirals are rather vague when you consider it is under or applies to the BOCA, UCB, CABO, IRC 2003, IRC 2006, or IFC 2006 codes. One must check with their local building department to get an update on what codes your spiral with fit.
Here is a short list of the most common code factors:
1. Minimum clear walking path of 26 inches. This means that the spiral will be a minimum 5-foot diameter
2. Each tread will have a minimum of 7-1/2 inch tread depth and 12 inches from the narrow edge.
3. The riser height (from the top one tread to the next) shall not be more than 9-1/2 inches in height.
4. The staircase must maintain a minimum headroom of 6 foot 6 inches.
5. The balusters (spindles) shall be installed so that a 4 inch sphere cannot pass through. A couple code agencies permit up to 4-3/8″.
6. The stairway must have at least one handrail on the wide edge of the tread.
7. Handrail height, measured vertically from the nose of the tread, shall not be less than 34 inches and not more than 38 inches.
Some define a spiral as a stair which winds around a central pole. That doesn’t always hold true. Five years ago a homeowner was given the okay through his building department to install a ladder or spiral accessing his 400 square foot library loft. They did not want the traditional spiral, but rather the look of a free standing staircase with glue-laminated stringers. This would require an inside and outside handrail, the inside being a 6 inch radius. We got the classification of a ladder and built a complete free standing spiral stair with enclosed risers, inside and outside skirts. In essence, a spiral can be creative a creative design only housed by your imagination.
Here’s a fun fact: Spiral stairs in medieval times were made of stone and were installed in a spiral down right. This put attacking swordsmen at a disadvantage who were generally right handed and served as defensive in design and structure